June 2008

Here in South Central Texas it's hot! I mean July and August hot. It's been unusually hot since about the middle of May. We're breaking high temperature records almost every day. Plants are suffering, as are the gardeners.

And, it's dry. Really dry. Now, I do watch the weather news and I know it's been stormy with tornadoes, thunderstorms, drenching rain and floods in other parts of the country. I can't even begin to imagine what it would feel like to be flooded out of my home.

If you are in an area that's been experiencing storms, floods, wind, tornadoes and other severe weather, my best wishes go out to you and your families. Gardens suffer terribly in torrential downpours, hail, wind and flooding, too. It isn't just heat and drought that can ruin a lovely garden or landscape. The time, effort and cost you put into your flower and vegetable beds can be wiped out by one hail storm.

We can't control the weather, but we can help our plants deal with severe conditions of heat and drought. Just because you're having a lot of rain now doesn't mean that later in the summer you won't be experiencing extreme heat with little or no rain.

I came across a very helpful newsletter carefully describing some of the effects of extreme heat and drought on our plants with some very good advice as to how to deal with those conditions. For the whole article, please click here or go to: http://www.plantanswers.com/garden_column/june03/4.htm.

One way to assure your plants' health in high temperatures is to make sure you are growing your selections in the proper sun/shade area. Many plants that can grow perfectly happily in full sun in northern areas or the milder areas of the west coast need shade in the Southwest, especially in the afternoon. I have put a list of heat tolerant plants, both annuals and perennials, in the side bar. Most of the plants listed can tolerate full sun, even here in Texas, but won't be compromised with some afternoon shade. And, remember, even drought tolerant plants need to be carefully monitored while they're getting established, so they don't dry out. And, also, unless you are growing true cacti, all plants need some moisture.

At temperatures up to 90º F., plants grow more quickly, but rarely suffer much damage, if kept watered. Of course, plants not adapted to your area will suffer more, or plants planted in more sun than they can handle could burn. When temperatures rise above 90º F. day after day, and the nights stay above 75º F., that is when your plants begin to suffer damage.

Symptoms of heat stress and hot soils start with foliage burn, then drying and browning at the tips of the leaves, dieback of tender, new growth and eventually even older leaves showing the whitish signs of burn. Even the stems can be burned in there isn't enough foliage cover.

You can combat this type of damage by either erecting a shade area over your plants or actually digging them up and moving them. This is not generally advised in very hot weather because the activity stresses the plants even more. But, if you're going to lose a plant due to sunburn, it's better to move it to a shady area, replant it and keep it well watered untli it recovers. It would be advisable to prune the plant back at this time to help it recover.

It isn't only the sun's rays that can damage the plant. Too hot soil temperatures can burn roots, too. Shallow rooted plants and plants in containers can succumb to root damage when the soil is too hot. If the roots become compromised, they cannot deliver water to the upper part of the plant, where it's needed, and the plant suffers.

Mulch, mulch and more mulch!! One cannot over mulch in the summer. Mulch evens soil temperatures, protects the root system from damage and aids in water retention. You can even mulch container plants to keep them from drying out so fast. Another trick for containers is to place one container inside another to act as insulation. I realize this isn't possible with some containers, but if you have larger plants growing in nursery pots, often you can find a larger pot to put it in. And, of course, if you're growing in containers, unless it's window box attached to the house or a fence, you can move the container to a more hospitable area.

Moisture and nutrition are essential to keeping your plants looking good during the stress of summer heat. Regular deep watering is the best way to keep the plants hydrated. You might see some plants wilting in the afternoon, and some wilting is natural. The leaves are trying to make their surface area smaller so they don't lose so much moisture through them. Sometimes, a little afternoon water is necessary to take the stress off the plant. But, a good cover of mulch will often alleviate the problem. That, and having plants that are adapted to the area where they are growing.

Plants need to be fed during the summer, too. The best way to feed is to apply lighter applications of nutrients more often. Use only half or less than the amount suggested on the fertilizer container, but apply it perhaps every two weeks or so. This is especially helpful for container plantings. Organic fertilizers are really best at all times, but in the summer, there can be a chance of burning the plants with chemicals. And, always fertilize either in the cool of the morning... or relative cool, or in the evenings, when the sun isn't blasting your plants. Different areas may need different schedules.

Speaking of schedules, watering needs to be done on an as-needed basis, rather than on a schedule. If you see plants that look like they need water, and you've just watered, go ahead and give them some moisture.

If your plants are stressed, this is when pests like to attack. So keep vigil and try to notice any damage early before the plant is completely taken over. As with fertilizers, organic pest control is the healthiest for you, your family, pets and plants. Apply any sprays in the early morning or evening.

I hope these tips will help you be able to enjoy your gardens this summer. Careful plant selection and placement will go a long way to making your job easier. And, never forget, if you lose plants this summer, you'll know what not to put in that spot next year. Because, with gardening, there's always next year.

A few minutes ago every tree was excited, bowing to the roaring storm, waving, swirling, tossing their branches in glorious enthusiasm like worship. But though to the outer ear these trees are now silent, their songs never cease. -John Muir, naturalist, explorer, and writer (1838-1914)

SUMMER ANNUALS

Begonias
Caladium
Cockscomb
Coleus
Copper Plant
Cosmos
Gillardia
Impatiens
Lantana
Marigold
Portulaca, Moss Rose
Salvia, Scarlet Sage, Blue Salvia
Zinnia

LANDSCAPE PLANTS

Katie Dwarf Ruellia
Hibiscus
Copper Canyon Daisy
Esperanza
Crape Myrtle
Vitex, Texas Lilac
Purple Fountain Grass